manojtech88
New Member
i need info abt honey bee cultivation.........
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abt honeeybee cultivation
- Thread starter manojtech88
- Start date
Dear sir,
Beekeeping
for beekeeping u must ensure the availability of flowers which are attractive throughout the year and water source so bees can be attracted and hieves are available in the market so u can cultivate and go through the fallowing .
During the first year of a queen's life the colony has little incentive to swarm, unless the hive is very crowded. During her second spring, however, she seems to be programmed to swarm. Without beekeeper "swarm management" in the second year, the hive will cast a "prime swarm" and may cast one to five "after swarms." The old queen will go with the prime swarm, and other swarms will be accompanied by virgin queens.
It is considered good practice in beekeeping to reduce swarming as much as possible using several techniques. Allowing this form of reproduction often results in the loss of the more vigorous division. The remaining colony may be so depleted and set back due to the brood cycle interruption that it is unproductive for the season. Beekeepers control swarming prior to the natural swarm time. They may remove frames of brood comb making nucs (nucleus or starter colonies) or by shaking package bees (usually for sale) from hives.
Swarming is to the beekeeper what losing all of his calves is to a cattleman. Beekeepers try to anticipate swarming and assist the bees to reproduce in a more controlled fashion by "splitting hives" or making "nucs." This saves the "calves" and keeps the "cow" in condition to accomplish some work.
Old fashioned laissez-faire beekeeping depended upon the capture of swarms to replenish beekeeper colonies and early swarms were especially valued. An old English poem says:
A swarm of bees in May is worth a load of hay;
A swarm of bees in June is worth a silver spoon;
A swarm of bees in July isn't worth a fly.
[edit] Swarm control methods
Beekeepers that do not wish to increase the number of hives they have may use one or more of the many methods for swarm control. Most methods simulate swarming to extinguish the swarming drive.
* Clipping one wing of the queen. When one wing of the queen is clipped, a swarm may issue but due to the queen's inability to fly, the swarm will gather right outside the original hive, where the swarm can be easily collected. Even though this is not a swarm prevention method it is a method of swarm retrieval.
* In the Demaree method a frame of capped brood is removed with the old queen. This frame is put in a hive box with empty drawn frames and foundation at the same location of the old hive. A honey super is added to the top of this hive topped by a crown board (known as an "Inner Cover" in America). The remaining hive box sans queen is inspected for queen cells. All queen cells are destroyed. This hive box, which has most of the bees, is put on top of the crown board. Foraging bees will return to the lower box depleting the population of the upper box. After a week to ten days both parts are inspected again and any subsequent queen cells destroyed. After another period of separation the swarming drive is extinguished and the hives can be re-combined.
* Simply keep the brood nest open. In preparation for swarming, bees fill the brood nest with honey. The queen stops laying to be trim enough to fly, and her newly unemployed nurse bees go with her. The concept of this method is to open the brood nest to employ those nurse bees and get the queen laying again and redirect this sequence of events. This is done by any number of slight variations from empty frames in the brood nest, frames of bare foundation in the brood nest or drawn combs in the brood nest, or moving brood combs to the box above to cause more expansion of the brood nest.
* Checkerboarding. In the late winter, frames are rearranged above the growing brood nest. The frames above the brood nest are alternated between full honey frames and empty drawn out frames or even foundationless frames. It is believed that only colonies that perceive to have enough reserves will attempt to swarm. Checkerboarding frames above the brood nest apparently destroys this sense of having reserves. [8]
Good beekeepers who are aware that a colony has swarmed will usually add brood with eggs. Given young brood the bees have a second chance to raise a new queen if the first one fails.
[edit] Swarm Capture
There are various methods to capture a swarm. When the swarm first settles down and forms a cluster it is relatively easy to capture the swarm in a suitable box or nuc. There are also swarm traps with Nasonov pheromone lures that can be used to attract swarms. One method that can be employed on a sunny day when the swarm is located on a lower branch or small tree is to put a white sheet under the swarm location. A nuc box is put on the sheet. The swarm is sprayed from the outside with a sugar solution and then vigorously shaken off the branch. The main cluster, hopefully including the queen, will fall onto the white sheet and the bees will quickly go for the first dark entrance space in sight, which is the opening of the nuc. An organized march toward the opening will ensue and after 15 minutes the majority of bees will be inside the nuc. This capture method does not work at night though.
Swarms may now be collected by a suction pump the swarm will be sucked into a box this way is easy not many bees are lost and none become angry.
[edit] Swarm Removal
Encountering a bee swarm for the first time can be alarming. However, swarms are typically benign, the individual bees are filled with honey, the swarm has no hive to defend and is focused on their task of finding a new location.
Bee swarms can almost always be collected alive and relocated by a competent beekeeper. Some people seem to think that a swarm should be exterminated for safety reasons.
Regards
Kirtis
Beekeeping
for beekeeping u must ensure the availability of flowers which are attractive throughout the year and water source so bees can be attracted and hieves are available in the market so u can cultivate and go through the fallowing .
During the first year of a queen's life the colony has little incentive to swarm, unless the hive is very crowded. During her second spring, however, she seems to be programmed to swarm. Without beekeeper "swarm management" in the second year, the hive will cast a "prime swarm" and may cast one to five "after swarms." The old queen will go with the prime swarm, and other swarms will be accompanied by virgin queens.
It is considered good practice in beekeeping to reduce swarming as much as possible using several techniques. Allowing this form of reproduction often results in the loss of the more vigorous division. The remaining colony may be so depleted and set back due to the brood cycle interruption that it is unproductive for the season. Beekeepers control swarming prior to the natural swarm time. They may remove frames of brood comb making nucs (nucleus or starter colonies) or by shaking package bees (usually for sale) from hives.
Swarming is to the beekeeper what losing all of his calves is to a cattleman. Beekeepers try to anticipate swarming and assist the bees to reproduce in a more controlled fashion by "splitting hives" or making "nucs." This saves the "calves" and keeps the "cow" in condition to accomplish some work.
Old fashioned laissez-faire beekeeping depended upon the capture of swarms to replenish beekeeper colonies and early swarms were especially valued. An old English poem says:
A swarm of bees in May is worth a load of hay;
A swarm of bees in June is worth a silver spoon;
A swarm of bees in July isn't worth a fly.
[edit] Swarm control methods
Beekeepers that do not wish to increase the number of hives they have may use one or more of the many methods for swarm control. Most methods simulate swarming to extinguish the swarming drive.
* Clipping one wing of the queen. When one wing of the queen is clipped, a swarm may issue but due to the queen's inability to fly, the swarm will gather right outside the original hive, where the swarm can be easily collected. Even though this is not a swarm prevention method it is a method of swarm retrieval.
* In the Demaree method a frame of capped brood is removed with the old queen. This frame is put in a hive box with empty drawn frames and foundation at the same location of the old hive. A honey super is added to the top of this hive topped by a crown board (known as an "Inner Cover" in America). The remaining hive box sans queen is inspected for queen cells. All queen cells are destroyed. This hive box, which has most of the bees, is put on top of the crown board. Foraging bees will return to the lower box depleting the population of the upper box. After a week to ten days both parts are inspected again and any subsequent queen cells destroyed. After another period of separation the swarming drive is extinguished and the hives can be re-combined.
* Simply keep the brood nest open. In preparation for swarming, bees fill the brood nest with honey. The queen stops laying to be trim enough to fly, and her newly unemployed nurse bees go with her. The concept of this method is to open the brood nest to employ those nurse bees and get the queen laying again and redirect this sequence of events. This is done by any number of slight variations from empty frames in the brood nest, frames of bare foundation in the brood nest or drawn combs in the brood nest, or moving brood combs to the box above to cause more expansion of the brood nest.
* Checkerboarding. In the late winter, frames are rearranged above the growing brood nest. The frames above the brood nest are alternated between full honey frames and empty drawn out frames or even foundationless frames. It is believed that only colonies that perceive to have enough reserves will attempt to swarm. Checkerboarding frames above the brood nest apparently destroys this sense of having reserves. [8]
Good beekeepers who are aware that a colony has swarmed will usually add brood with eggs. Given young brood the bees have a second chance to raise a new queen if the first one fails.
[edit] Swarm Capture
There are various methods to capture a swarm. When the swarm first settles down and forms a cluster it is relatively easy to capture the swarm in a suitable box or nuc. There are also swarm traps with Nasonov pheromone lures that can be used to attract swarms. One method that can be employed on a sunny day when the swarm is located on a lower branch or small tree is to put a white sheet under the swarm location. A nuc box is put on the sheet. The swarm is sprayed from the outside with a sugar solution and then vigorously shaken off the branch. The main cluster, hopefully including the queen, will fall onto the white sheet and the bees will quickly go for the first dark entrance space in sight, which is the opening of the nuc. An organized march toward the opening will ensue and after 15 minutes the majority of bees will be inside the nuc. This capture method does not work at night though.
Swarms may now be collected by a suction pump the swarm will be sucked into a box this way is easy not many bees are lost and none become angry.
[edit] Swarm Removal
Encountering a bee swarm for the first time can be alarming. However, swarms are typically benign, the individual bees are filled with honey, the swarm has no hive to defend and is focused on their task of finding a new location.
Bee swarms can almost always be collected alive and relocated by a competent beekeeper. Some people seem to think that a swarm should be exterminated for safety reasons.
Regards
Kirtis
Bee keeping
Bee keeping is very good agro industry. with little effort one will florish very soon. it requires comparativly less investment in land , building, plant and machineries.
You can do two things,
Bee keeping is very good agro industry. with little effort one will florish very soon. it requires comparativly less investment in land , building, plant and machineries.
You can do two things,
Procure from out side , process and market.
you can have your own behives , grow, multiply, give training to others, process and market/ or supply to other big players.
Honey is always in demand and is in short supply.
Many state goverments/ Khadi gramodyog gives lot of subsidies/ facilities on beekeeping.
Any one intrested inpractical training,factory/ field visits, project reports on this or any projects on food and agro industries may contact
Beekeeping
for beekeeping u must ensure the availability of flowers which are attractive throughout the year and water source so bees can be attracted and hieves are available in the market so u can cultivate and go through the fallowing .
During the first year of a queen's life the colony has little incentive to swarm, unless the hive is very crowded. During her second spring, however, she seems to be programmed to swarm. Without beekeeper "swarm management" in the second year, the hive will cast a "prime swarm" and may cast one to five "after swarms." The old queen will go with the prime swarm, and other swarms will be accompanied by virgin queens.
It is considered good practice in beekeeping to reduce swarming as much as possible using several techniques. Allowing this form of reproduction often results in the loss of the more vigorous division. The remaining colony may be so depleted and set back due to the brood cycle interruption that it is unproductive for the season. Beekeepers control swarming prior to the natural swarm time. They may remove frames of brood comb making nucs (nucleus or starter colonies) or by shaking package bees (usually for sale) from hives.
Swarming is to the beekeeper what losing all of his calves is to a cattleman. Beekeepers try to anticipate swarming and assist the bees to reproduce in a more controlled fashion by "splitting hives" or making "nucs." This saves the "calves" and keeps the "cow" in condition to accomplish some work.
Old fashioned laissez-faire beekeeping depended upon the capture of swarms to replenish beekeeper colonies and early swarms were especially valued. An old English poem says:
A swarm of bees in May is worth a load of hay;
A swarm of bees in June is worth a silver spoon;
A swarm of bees in July isn't worth a fly.
[edit] Swarm control methods
Beekeepers that do not wish to increase the number of hives they have may use one or more of the many methods for swarm control. Most methods simulate swarming to extinguish the swarming drive.
* Clipping one wing of the queen. When one wing of the queen is clipped, a swarm may issue but due to the queen's inability to fly, the swarm will gather right outside the original hive, where the swarm can be easily collected. Even though this is not a swarm prevention method it is a method of swarm retrieval.
* In the Demaree method a frame of capped brood is removed with the old queen. This frame is put in a hive box with empty drawn frames and foundation at the same location of the old hive. A honey super is added to the top of this hive topped by a crown board (known as an "Inner Cover" in America). The remaining hive box sans queen is inspected for queen cells. All queen cells are destroyed. This hive box, which has most of the bees, is put on top of the crown board. Foraging bees will return to the lower box depleting the population of the upper box. After a week to ten days both parts are inspected again and any subsequent queen cells destroyed. After another period of separation the swarming drive is extinguished and the hives can be re-combined.
* Simply keep the brood nest open. In preparation for swarming, bees fill the brood nest with honey. The queen stops laying to be trim enough to fly, and her newly unemployed nurse bees go with her. The concept of this method is to open the brood nest to employ those nurse bees and get the queen laying again and redirect this sequence of events. This is done by any number of slight variations from empty frames in the brood nest, frames of bare foundation in the brood nest or drawn combs in the brood nest, or moving brood combs to the box above to cause more expansion of the brood nest.
* Checkerboarding. In the late winter, frames are rearranged above the growing brood nest. The frames above the brood nest are alternated between full honey frames and empty drawn out frames or even foundationless frames. It is believed that only colonies that perceive to have enough reserves will attempt to swarm. Checkerboarding frames above the brood nest apparently destroys this sense of having reserves. [8]
Good beekeepers who are aware that a colony has swarmed will usually add brood with eggs. Given young brood the bees have a second chance to raise a new queen if the first one fails.
[edit] Swarm Capture
There are various methods to capture a swarm. When the swarm first settles down and forms a cluster it is relatively easy to capture the swarm in a suitable box or nuc. There are also swarm traps with Nasonov pheromone lures that can be used to attract swarms. One method that can be employed on a sunny day when the swarm is located on a lower branch or small tree is to put a white sheet under the swarm location. A nuc box is put on the sheet. The swarm is sprayed from the outside with a sugar solution and then vigorously shaken off the branch. The main cluster, hopefully including the queen, will fall onto the white sheet and the bees will quickly go for the first dark entrance space in sight, which is the opening of the nuc. An organized march toward the opening will ensue and after 15 minutes the majority of bees will be inside the nuc. This capture method does not work at night though.
Swarms may now be collected by a suction pump the swarm will be sucked into a box this way is easy not many bees are lost and none become angry.
[edit] Swarm Removal
Encountering a bee swarm for the first time can be alarming. However, swarms are typically benign, the individual bees are filled with honey, the swarm has no hive to defend and is focused on their task of finding a new location.
Bee swarms can almost always be collected alive and relocated by a competent beekeeper. Some people seem to think that a swarm should be exterminated for safety reasons.
Regards
Kirtis
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