We are planting 5000 Nos of Moringa plants. For the pit preparation, we do not have access to large quantities of farmyard manure and we cannot afford to spend on purchasing expensive organic composts. Can we use humic acid as an alternative to either farmyard manure or organic compost for the pit preparation. I shall appreciate feedback & views from members of this forum if we can use humic acid as an alternative to either farmyard manure or organic compost
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Is humic acid an alternative for fym & organic compost?
- Thread starter ikp68
- Start date
Alternative for fym
Hello IKP
Have you had any feedback and suggestions to your query. I am alslo in a similar situation, and I am in the lookout for alternatives for Compst & FYM as I find them expensive and cumbersome to purchase
Pl share your feedback if you have received any useful suggestions
SKK
Hello IKP
Have you had any feedback and suggestions to your query. I am alslo in a similar situation, and I am in the lookout for alternatives for Compst & FYM as I find them expensive and cumbersome to purchase
Pl share your feedback if you have received any useful suggestions
SKK
We are planting 5000 Nos of Moringa plants. For the pit preparation, we do not have access to large quantities of farmyard manure and we cannot afford to spend on purchasing expensive organic composts. Can we use humic acid as an alternative to either farmyard manure or organic compost for the pit preparation. I shall appreciate feedback & views from members of this forum if we can use humic acid as an alternative to either farmyard manure or organic compost
Humic acid
The indirect answer to your question is humic acid is commonly added to transplanted plants, in the hole and back fill. The key is to remember if it is a liquid or granular. Liquids are typically used as a root dip or post planting drench. Granular humics are mixed into the hole and/or back fill. Keep an eye on the pH of the liquid humic. Some humic manufacturers use an excess of KOH making the liquid very alkaline. Some granular humics have fertilizer blended with them, so make sure to check the analysis; you don't want to burn the new planting with excess nitrogen.
Humic acid is the end result of decomposition. Some describe it as geologic organic matter or passive organic matter, that is to say it is no longer susceptible to microbial degradation. In short it is going to be in your soil a long time doing its thing.
In contrast, compost or manure is actively digested by soil microbes. One year after application 60 - 80% of mature compost or manure is returned to the air as CO2 from microbial degradation. Compost and manure for this reason is considered active soil organic matter. I consider compost microbe food and nutrients mostly.
As you can see there is a distinct difference in the interaction of the two types of soil amendments and persistence in the soil. I usually recommend a blend of both (compost and manure have nutrients and microbe food). In a pinch just adding granular humic will work well in a planting to condition the soil. More soil incorporation of granular humic is better. It will loosen hard soils and can help increase the availability of nutrients and improve soil properties.
Last, kelp extracts and humics are commonly blended together will help increase rooting. You may also find some of these blends available instead of just plain humic. There is a national trade association for humic manufacturers that I suggest you look to for reputable firms. Welcome to HPTA
The indirect answer to your question is humic acid is commonly added to transplanted plants, in the hole and back fill. The key is to remember if it is a liquid or granular. Liquids are typically used as a root dip or post planting drench. Granular humics are mixed into the hole and/or back fill. Keep an eye on the pH of the liquid humic. Some humic manufacturers use an excess of KOH making the liquid very alkaline. Some granular humics have fertilizer blended with them, so make sure to check the analysis; you don't want to burn the new planting with excess nitrogen.
Humic acid is the end result of decomposition. Some describe it as geologic organic matter or passive organic matter, that is to say it is no longer susceptible to microbial degradation. In short it is going to be in your soil a long time doing its thing.
In contrast, compost or manure is actively digested by soil microbes. One year after application 60 - 80% of mature compost or manure is returned to the air as CO2 from microbial degradation. Compost and manure for this reason is considered active soil organic matter. I consider compost microbe food and nutrients mostly.
As you can see there is a distinct difference in the interaction of the two types of soil amendments and persistence in the soil. I usually recommend a blend of both (compost and manure have nutrients and microbe food). In a pinch just adding granular humic will work well in a planting to condition the soil. More soil incorporation of granular humic is better. It will loosen hard soils and can help increase the availability of nutrients and improve soil properties.
Last, kelp extracts and humics are commonly blended together will help increase rooting. You may also find some of these blends available instead of just plain humic. There is a national trade association for humic manufacturers that I suggest you look to for reputable firms. Welcome to HPTA
Yeah, humic acid is an alternative for organic agriculture, it can optimize the structure of soil and promote plants growth. i think you could give it a try
Last edited: