Part III

[S.Annadana]

Daily doses of pesticides are particularly unappetizing given the existence of a highly productive model of farming that doesn't need these toxic chemicals. "If you could give me a magic wand and I could make any changes that I want, I would have the EPA researching, developing, and helping farmers implement sustainable agricultural processes so they don't need pesticides," Cox says. "There are better ways to manage pests. Organic is a great example that it can be done."

200,000 Farmers Needed
Cox's wish hints at what official acknowledgement of the interaction between farming practices and the healthfulness of our food could mean. As a country, we're stuck in the mode of regulating and mitigating the negative effects of conventional farming. We could, instead, be spending our time and resources expanding and improving upon the organic model of food production and removing the structural barriers that limit regular access to organic food to a geographic and economic elite.

"Organic will be five to eight percent of the US food economy in the next couple of years," says Bob Scowcroft, executive director of the Organic Farming Research Foundation (OFRF). "But to go from five percent to 40 is another story. That will involve policy work and institutional change."

For starters, the nation's agricultural colleges will need to develop the capacity to train tens of thousands more organic farmers. "Organic systems are more complex and biologically intricate compared to a conventional agri-chemical based production system," says Hepperly of the Rodale Institute. "Right now, the official number of organic farmers is approaching 20,000 in the United States. If we were going to have 30 percent of US agriculture in organic, we'd have to have 200,000 organic farmers. We're talking an enormous ramp-up in our education system."

For that to happen, Congressional action is sorely needed to redirect the Farm Bill away from status quo conventional farming and toward farm and food healthfulness. "We need growing and eating organic to become a matter of public policy because, right now, we are publicly funding the other direction: primarily corn and soybeans -- and the atrazine, the genetically modified organisms, and the organophosphates that go along with those crops," Dr. Alan Greene says.

"Overall, the USDA has been spending about $2 billion per year on research, extension, education, economics and statistics. Less than one percent is specifically directed at the needs of organic production, processing, and marketing," Mark Lipson of the Organic Farming Research Foundation testified before the newly formed House Agriculture Subcommittee on Horticulture and Organic Agriculture in April 2007.

The list of structural barriers goes on. Because there isn't good regional market and pricing data for organic crops, organic growers pay a five percent penalty surcharge on crop insurance premiums. When organic growers incur an insured loss, they are repaid at conventional crop prices even though conventional prices are usually far lower than organic prices. And without solid third party data to back up their estimates, organic farmers have difficulty convincing loan officers that their projected yields and revenues are reasonable.

Many regions lack the distribution infrastructure even to supply organic farmers with compost. "Organic is highly geocentric," says Steve Diver, who worked for 18 years for the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service (ATTRA). "The organic infrastructure sucks to hell for most of the heartland of the country." In California, Diver says, farmers can pick up the phone and order whatever soil amendments they need, in whatever quantities, from a local dealer who will deliver the goods right to the farm. But in many parts of the South, five to six farmers have to band together, order a 22-ton semi-truck load from out of state, then off-load the product into their own vehicles and truck it home.

Organic meat producers lack access to slaughterhouses. "You can't sell meat unless it's been slaughtered by USDA packing houses, and these slaughterhouses are mostly at CAFOs [concentrated animal feeding operations]," says Scowcroft. CAFO slaughterhouses generally won't deal with the smaller numbers of animals that most organic meat producers are slaughtering at any one time. Even when they do, the CAFO slaughterhouse has to first be steam-cleaned and sterilized before animals can be slaughtered there for the meat to still qualify as certified organic. "And even then," says Scowcroft, "there are a lot of chemicals used in the sterilization and the cleaning process, so what you really need are dedicated certified organic slaughter rooms."

You Can Ask, But They Won't Tell
Try to get guidance from the federal government on the potential health benefits of eating organic, and you'll find your questions quickly and politely deflected. The US Department of Health and Human Services will defer to its Food and Drug Administration (FDA). FDA spokespeople will say that "organic" is a term used by the USDA, not the FDA, and that the FDA has no policy on organics. The USDA will say that its mandate does not extend to passing judgement on the relative safety and nutritional benefits of organic versus conventional foods, and that the USDA's task is simply to regulate use of the "certified organic" label.

With that passing of the apple, the federal government excuses itself from exploring whether conventional farming practices compromise the nutritional benefits of whole foods, and whether modern organic farming offers a model of food production that conveys significant health benefits. It's anyone's guess how many more studies will be needed before the relative merits of foods produced in different farming systems can become a topic of discussion among federal food and health officials. Agri-chemical companies led by the Monsanto will certainly use their considerable influence to delay that day as long as possible.

In the meantime, we will keep eating -- but we need to ask just how well?